Betwixt and Between

"If I forget Jerusalem, It's because of Tel Aviv"
Photo credit: imgrumweb.com

Betwixt and Between

“I’ve got to blog about this,”  I laughed to myself, while the Moovit carpool driver let out a chuckle, both of us amused by the passenger’s attempt to marry-off his sister to the driver’s brother.

“I’ll tell ya," said the driver,  "it’s not the first time that some successful matchmaking happened in my car.”

It was wintertime in Jerusalem and I was taking my usual Sunday-night trip to Alon’s apartment in Tel Aviv.

I had gotten used to the process of squishing myself and and my overnight bag between two strangers, with whom I’d share my fate for the next 1-2 hours.

We’d spend the traffic-filled ride discussing wedding planning, family drama, politics, or the inevitable, controversial question: Jerusalem or TLV?

The question itself points to polarization of Israel society:

Are you secular or religious? More into history or modernity? Hipster or Chassid?

Is there no room for nuance?

It was easy for me to concede to one clear answer: Jerusalem, of course . Since living in the heart of the city, I found comfort in the enticing Jerusalem stone, in the frenetic, intense energy, in the palpable holiness, in the diversity, and even in the stark contrasts—where Arab East Jerusalem meets the city of David and hippie Nachlaot winds into ultra orthodox Me’a She’arim.

In this city of fire and gold, I feel inspired. Inspired to learn about my faith, to bridge the American-Israeli divide, to learn the history imbedded in every corner. To philosophize and question. To wrestle with my identity.

But this city, in all of it’s glory, is not short of conflict, racism, violence, poverty, extremism and the never-ending politicization of religion.

“Jerusalem prays, Tel Aviv plays” said the driver with an air of confidence.

I laughed in agreement, and pondered my own version of this phrase:

In Jerusalem I feel obliged; In Tel Aviv, I feel free.

Tel Aviv is where I get off the 480 bus at Arlozorov, take off my sweater, and let my shoulders feel the salty, humid air; where I am inspired to shop when I pass a trendy thrift store; where cafes are jam-packed with tipsy University students for Friday brunch; where the beach atmosphere promotes spontaneous jam-sessions, acro-yoga meetups, and a free-spirited vibe that is welcoming to all.

Yet, this city, like it's jerusalem counterpart, has a shadow of it's own. It's lightheartedness often verges on superficiality and even deep-seated cynicism--the sprightly city's tragic flaw.

Juxtaposed, these two cities are yin and yang.

They are the two sturdy pillars of Israel’s center.

And they are a testament to the country's ever-thriving democracy.

Zoom out and you’ll see that only 54 Kilometers separate these two cities.

Zoom in and you’ll feel that they’re worlds apart.

Travel back and forth between the two – in a car filled with strangers-turned-friends—and perhaps you’ll see that there's a place for both cities within you.